On the 17th, the ship was visited by a canoe from the hippah, or village; it contained, among others, the aged Indian, of superior distinction, who had first visited the English upon their arrival. In a conference which Tupia had with him, he testified his apprehensions, that their enemies would very soon visit them, and repay the compliment, for killing and eating the four men.
On the 18th they received no visit from the Indians, but going out in the pinnace to inspect the bay, they saw a single man in a canoe, fishing in the manner already described. It was remarkable, that this man did not pay the least attention to the people in the pinnace, but continued to pursue his employment even when they came along-side of him, without once looking at them. Some of the Endeavour’s people being on shore found three human hip bones, close to an oven: these were brought on board, as well as the hair of a man’s head, which was found in a tree. The next day a forge was set up to repair the iron work, and some Indians visited the ship with plenty of fish, which they bartered very fairly for nails.
On the 20th, Mr. Banks purchased of the old Indian a man’s head, which he seemed very unwilling to part with; the skull had been fractured by a blow, and the brains were extracted, and like the others it was preserved from putrefaction. From the care with which they kept these skulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, it was imagined they were considered as trophies of war, and testimonials of their valour. In this day’s excursion they did not meet with a single native; the ground on every side was quite uncultivated; but they discovered a very good harbour. The succeeding day the ship’s company were allowed to go on shore for their amusement, and the gentlemen employed themselves in fishing, in which they were very successful. Some of the company in their excursion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide ditches, with a draw-bridge, which, tho’ simple in its structure, is capable of answering every purpose against the arms of the natives. Within these ditches is a fence, made with stakes, fixed in the earth. A decisive conquest or victory over the besieged occasions an entire depopulation of that district, as the vanquished, not only those who are killed, but the prisoners likewise are devoured by the victors. From what has been related by such unquestionable authority, there can remain no doubt with the unprejudiced reader, that the inhabitants of this part of the globe are cannibals. There are, indeed, some closet travellers, who treat every thing as visionary, that they have not been eye-witnesses of, and therefore disbelieve all they read, related by real travellers, that does not square with their own notions and ideas; but as it may be impossible to convince these sceptical readers, we shall leave them to amuse themselves with their doubts and objections.
[Illustration: _View of an Arched Rock on the Coast of New Zealand, with a place of Retreat on the Top of it._]
The 22d was employed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in collecting of plants, whilst Captain Cook made some observations on the main land on the south-east side of the inlet, which consisted of a chain of high hills, and formed part of the south-west side of the streight; the opposite side extended far to the east. He also discovered a village, and many houses that had been deserted, and another village that appeared to be inhabited. There were many small islands round the coast that seemed entirely barren, and what few inhabitants were upon them then lived principally upon fish. On the 24th they visited a hippah, which was situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a fine natural arch, one side of which joined to the land, and the other rose out of the sea. The inhabitants received the gentlemen with great civility, and very readily shewed them every thing that was curious. This hippah was partly surrounded with a pallisade, and it had a fighting stage like that already described. Here they met with a cross resembling a crucifix, which was ornamented with feathers, and which was erected as a monument for a deceased person; but they could not learn how his body was disposed of. From a conversation that Tupia had with these people, a discovery was made, that an officer being in a boat near this village, and some canoes coming off made him imagine they had hostile designs, and he fired upon them with ball, which made them retire with much precipitation, but they could not effect their retreat before one of them was wounded. What made this rash action the more to be lamented was, that the Indians afterwards gave every possible assurance that their intentions, upon this occasion, were entirely friendly.
On the 25th the Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on shore to shoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were among the creeks catching fish: they behaved very civilly, and received some trifling presents from the gentlemen. The next day they went to take a view of the streight, that passes between the eastern and western seas: they accordingly attained the summit of a hill, but it being cloudy weather, they could not see at any considerable distance. Here, however, they erected a pile, leaving in it musket balls, small shot, beads, &c. as a testimonial of this place having been visited by Europeans. Upon their return they met with another Indian family, who behaved to them very respectfully, and assisted in procuring them water. They also visited another hippah upon a rock that was almost inaccessible; it consisted of about ninety houses, and had a fighting stage. The gentlemen made the inhabitants some small presents, and they in return furnished them with dried fish.
The ship’s company were, on the 27th and 28th, engaged in making necessary repairs, and getting her ready for sea. The next day they were visited by Topoa, their old friend, and some other Indians. They said, that the man who had received a wound from the officer, near the hippah, was dead; but this assertion proved afterwards groundless. The Doctor and Mr. Banks often went on shore whilst the ship was preparing for sea, and made several observations upon the coast to the north-west: they perceived an island, at about ten leagues distance, between which and the main there were several smaller islands. The Captain also went on shore, and erected another pyramid of stones, in which he put some bullets, beads, &c. as before, with the addition of a piece of silver coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the top, to distinguish it. Some of the people who had been sent out to gather celery, met with several of the natives, among whom were some women, whose husbands had lately fallen into the hands of the enemy, and they were cutting many parts of their body in the most shocking manner with sharp stones, in testimony of their excessive grief. What made this ceremony appear ridiculous as well as shocking, was, that the male Indians, who were with them, paid not the least attention to it, but with the greatest unconcern imaginable, employed themselves in repairing some empty huts upon the spot.
On Tuesday the 30th, two posts were erected, inscribed with the ship’s name, &c. as usual; one was placed at the watering-place, with the Union flag upon it, and the other in the same manner, on the island of _Motuara_; and the inhabitants being informed, that these posts were meant as memorials of the Endeavour having touched at this place, promised never to destroy them. The Captain then named this inlet _Queen Charlotte’s Sound_; and took possession of it in the name, and for the use of his Majesty, and a bottle of wine was drank to the Queen’s health.
The Captain made the old man some presents; among others there were a silver three-pence and some spike nails, with the broad arrow upon them. Topoa being questioned concerning a passage into the eastern sea, answered, that there certainly was such a passage; and he also informed the Captain, that the land to the south-west of the streight, where he then was, consisted of two islands, named _Tovy Poennammoo_, and that it would take about two days to sail round them; he added, that there was a third island to the east, called _Eaheinomauwe_, which was of considerable extent; and that the land contiguous to this inlet was called _Tiera Witte_.
Towards night, on the 31st, a brisk gale arose, attended with heavy showers, and the next morning the weather became so very tempestuous, that the Endeavour had her hawser broke, and several casks of water that had been left on shore were washed away with the rain.
The 2d, 3d and 4th of February, were chiefly spent in preparing for their departure, and purchasing fish of the natives, who confirmed the accounts that Topoa had given, respecting an eastern passage and the adjacent islands. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were in the mean while chiefly engaged in collecting seeds and shells of different kinds. They got under sail the 5th, but the wind not continuing, they came again to an anchor. Topoa visited the gentlemen again to bid them farewel; and being questioned, whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as the Endeavour had touched there, he answered in the negative; but added, there was a tradition of a small vessel coming from a place called _Ulimaroa_ (a distant country to the north) that there were only four men in her, and that they were all put to death.