January 1, 1770, they tacked and stood to the eastward; and on the 3d they saw land again; it was high and flat, and tended away to the south-east, beyond the reach of the naked eye. It is remarkable, that the Endeavour was three weeks in making ten leagues to the westward, and that she met with a violent gale of wind in latitude 35 deg. south, at Midsummer. On the morning of the 4th they stood along the shore, the coast appearing sandy and barren, dreary and inhospitable; steering northward on the 6th they saw land again, which they imagined to be Cape Maria: on the 7th, they had light breezes, and were sometimes becalmed, when they saw a sun-fish, short and thick in figure, with two large fins, but scarce any tail, resembling a shark in colour and size. They continued steering east till the 9th, when they perceived land, and were soon after a-breast of a point, which Captain Cook named _Woody-head_. From the south-west there is a small island, which the Captain called _Gannet Island_. Another point remarkably high to the east-north-east, the Captain named _Albetross Point_, on the north side of which a bay is formed that promises good anchorage. At about two leagues distance from Albetross Point to the north-east, they discovered a remarkable high mountain, equal in height to that, of Teneriffe, the summit of which was covered with snow, and it was named Mount _Egmont_. It is in latitude 39 deg. 16 min. longitude 185 deg. 15 min. west, and the country round it is pleasant, presenting an agreeable verdure, intersected with woods: the coast forms an extensive cape, which the Captain likewise called cape Egmont, in honour of the nobleman of that name. It is about twenty-seven leagues to the south-south-west of Albetross Point, having two small islands to the north, near a very high point of a conic figure. This day some very heavy showers of rain fell, accompanied with thunder and lightening. The Captain proposed careening the ship here, and taking in wood and water; and accordingly, on the 15th, steered for an inlet; when it being almost a calm, the ship was carried by the current very near the shore, but got clear with the assistance of the boats. Whilst this was doing a sea lion made its appearance; it is a very curious creature, and answers the description given of it in Lord Anson’s Voyage. The Captain sent the pinnace to examine a small cove that appeared, but soon after recalled her, on seeing the natives launch and arm their canoes. The Endeavour anchored in a commodious part of the bay, in sailing towards which spot an Indian town was descried, when the inhabitants waved their hands, seemingly to invite the Endeavour’s people to land. In passing the point of the bay, they observed an armed centinel on duty, who was twice relieved. Four canoes came from shore to visit the ship, but none of the Indians would venture on board, except an old man, who seemed of elevated rank: his countrymen took great pains to prevent his coming on board, but they could not divert him from his purpose, and he was received with the utmost civility and hospitality. Tupia and the old man joined noses, according to the custom of the country, and after receiving several presents, he returned to his associates, when they began to dance and laugh, and soon after retired. The Captain and the other gentlemen now went on shore, where they met with plenty of wood and water, and were very successful in fishing, catching some hundred weight in a short time.
On the 16th the Endeavour’s people were engaged in careening her, when three canoes came off with a great number of Indians, and brought several of their women with them. This circumstance was judged a favourable presage of their peaceable disposition, but they soon gave proofs of the contrary, by attempting to stop the long-boat that was sent on shore for water, when Captain Cook had recourse to the old expedient of firing some shot, which intimidated them for the present; but they soon gave fresh proofs of their insidious designs. One of them snatched some paper from the Endeavour’s people who were trading with them, and brandishing his patoo patoo, put himself in a threatening posture; upon which it was judged expedient to fire some small shot at him, which wounded him in the knee; this step put an end to the correspondence with regard to trade; but Tupia still continued conversing with them, and making many inquiries concerning the curiosities of New Zealand; he also asked them, if they had ever before seen a ship of the magnitude of the Endeavour; to which they replied, they had never seen such a vessel, nor ever heard that one had been upon the coast, though Tasman certainly touched here, which was only fifteen miles south of Murderer’s bay. There is great plenty of fish in all the coves of this bay; among others here are cuttle fish, large breams, small grey breams, small and large baracootas, flying gurnards, horse mackrel, dog fish, soles, dabs, mullets, drums, scorpenas, or rock fish, cole fish, shags, chimeras, &c. The inhabitants catch their fish as follows; their net is cylindrical, extended by several hoops at the bottom, and contracted at the top; the fish going in to feed upon what is put in the net, are caught in great abundance; there are also birds of various kinds, and in great numbers, particularly parrots, wood pigeons, water hens, hawks, and many different singing birds. An herb, a species of _Philadelphus_, was used here instead of tea; and a plant, called Teegoomme, resembling rug cloaks, served the natives for garments. The environs of the cove where the Endeavour lay is covered entirely with wood, and the supple jacks are so numerous, that it is with difficulty passengers can pursue their way; here is a numerous sand-fly that is very disagreeable. The tops of many of the hills are covered with fern. The air of the country is very moist, and has some qualities that promote putrefaction, as birds that had been shot but a few hours were found with maggots in them. The women who accompanied the men in the canoes wore a head-dress, which the gentlemen had no where met with before. It was composed of black feathers, tied in a bunch on the top of the head, which greatly increased its height. The manner of their disposing of their dead is very different to what is practised in the South-sea islands, they tie a large stone to the body, and throw it into the sea: the gentlemen saw the body of a woman which had been disposed of this way, but which by some accident had disengaged itself from the stone, floating upon the water. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the Doctor visited another cove, about two miles from the ship. There was a family of Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of the gentlemen, all running away except one; but upon Tupia’s conversing with him the others returned. They found, by the provisions of this family, that they were cannibals, here being several human bones that had been lately dressed and picked; and it appeared, that a short time before, six of their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had killed four and eaten them, and that the other two were drowned in endeavouring to make their escape. They made no secret of this abominable custom, but answered Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, with great composure, that his conjectures were just, that they were the bones of a man, and testified by signs, that they thought human flesh delicious food. Upon being asked, why they had not eaten the body of the woman that had been seen floating upon the water? They replied, she had died of a disorder, and that moreover she was related to them, and they never ate any but their enemies. Upon Mr. Banks’s still testifying some doubts concerning the fact, one of the Indians drew the bone of a man’s arm through his mouth, and this gentleman had the curiosity to bring it away with him. There was a woman in this family whose arms and legs were cut in a shocking manner, and it appeared she had thus wounded herself, because her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy.
Some of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, which they rated at a very high price. The brains had been taken out, and probably eaten, but the scalp and hair remained. They seemed to have been dried by fire, in order to preserve them from putrefaction. The gentlemen likewise saw the bail of a canoe, which was made of a human skull. In a word, their ideas were so horrid and brutal, that they seemed to pride themselves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a peculiar pleasure in shewing the manner in which they killed their enemies, it being considered as very meritorious to be expert at this destruction. The method used was to knock them down with their patoo patoos, and then rip up their bellies.
An amazing number of birds usually began their melody about two o’clock in the morning, and serenaded the gentlemen till the time of their rising. This harmony was very agreeable, as the ship lay at a convenient distance from the shore, to hear it. These feathered choiristers, like the English nightingales, never sing in the day time.