By the 27th they had sailed round the whole country, and determined to depart from the coast, as soon as they had taken in a stock of water. For this purpose the Captain went ashore in the long-boat, and found an excellent watering-place, and a proper birth for the ship; which being moored, they began filling their casks; while the carpenter and his crew were employed in cutting wood. On the 30th the Captain, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went in the pinnace to examine the bay, and the land on its borders, on which the two last mentioned gentlemen found several plants, of a species they had not seen before. They saw no inhabitants; but found several Indian huts, which appeared to have been long deserted. When they returned on board in the evening, the ship was ready to sail, all the wood and water being on board. A council of the officers was now held, as to the passage they should take to England; when it was resolved to return by the East Indies, and with that view to steer for the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the northward.
This resolution being taken, they sailed at day-break, on Saturday March 31, 1770, and taking their departure from an eastern point, which they had seen on the 23d, they called it CAPE FAREWELL. The bay from which they sailed was named ADMIRALTY BAY, and the two Capes thereof CAPE STEPHENS, and CAPE JACKSON, the names of the then Secretaries to the Board of Admiralty. Between the island and Cape Farewell is a bay, which they called BLIND BAY, and which Captain Cook supposes, to be the same that is distinguished in Tasman’s Voyage, by the name of Murderers Bay.
We shall now proceed to give such an account of the country and its inhabitants, as could be acquired during the circumnavigation of the coast. Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutchman, was the first European that made a discovery of NEW ZEALAND, to which he gave the name of STAATEN LAND, that is, the land of the States General. Tasman never went on shore, as the Indians attacked him soon after he came to an anchor, in the bay to which he gave the name of Murderers Bay. From the time of Tasman’s discovery, which was in December 1642, till the present voyage, the whole country, except that part which Tasman saw, remained totally unknown, and has been supposed to be part of a southern continent; but it now proves to be two large islands, separated by a streight, of the breadth of about twelve miles.
The situation of these islands is between 34 and 48 degrees of south latitude, and 181 and 194 degrees of west longitude. The natives call the northern island Eaheinomauwe, and the southermost Tovy Paenammoo.
Eaheinomauwe, though hilly, and in some places mountainous, is well stored with wood, and there is a rivulet in every valley. The soil of the vallies is light, but is so fertile, as to be well adapted for the plentiful production of all sorts of the fruits, plants, and corn of Europe; the inhabitants of which, if a settlement should be effected, might supply themselves with the necessaries and even luxuries of life, without any extraordinary exertion of their industry. The summer is more equally warm, though not hotter than in England; and it is imagined, from the vegetables that were found, that the winter is not so severe.
Dogs and rats are the only quadrupedes that were seen, and of the latter only a very few. The inhabitants breed the dogs for the sole purpose of eating them. There are seals and whales on the coast; and they once saw a sea-lion. The birds are hawks, owls, quails; and there are song-birds, whose note is wonderfully melodious. There are ducks and shags of several sorts, not unlike those of Europe; and the gannet, which is exactly the same. The sea-coast is visited by albatrosses, sheerwaters, pintados and penguins, descriptions of which have been given in other voyages. The insects are flesh-flies, beetles, butterflies, sand-flies and musquitos.
Tovy Poenammoo appears to be a barren country, is very mountainous, and almost destitute of inhabitants.
The sea which washes these islands abounds with fish, which are equally delicate and wholesome food. They seldom came to anchor but they catched enough, with hook and line only, to supply the whole ship’s crew: and, when they fished with nets, every mess in the ship, except those who were too indolent, salted as much as supplied them when at sea for several weeks after. The fish was not less various in kind than plentiful in quantity: there were many sorts they had never before seen; but the sailors readily gave names to all of them. They had several sorts of mackrel, one of which was the same as we eat in England. These fish were catched by the natives in immense quantities, and sold to the crew on the most moderate terms: but the richest dainty these seas afforded was the sea cray-fish, which differ from those seen in England, by having more prickles on the back, and being red when first catched. These they purchased of the natives on the north coast, who dive for them, and find where they lie with their feet. They had several kinds of skate, and a kind of dog-fish, of a more delicate flavour, though otherwise similar to the skate eaten in London. Eels, congers, clams, oysters, cockles, and flat-fish, resembling both soles and flounders, were likewise found in great plenty on this coast.
This country abounds with forests, filled with very large, strait, and clean timber. There is one tree about the size of an oak, which was distinguished by a scarlet flower, that appeared to be composed of several fibres; and another which grows in swampy ground, very strait and tall, bearing small bunches of berries, and a leaf resembling that of the yew tree. About four hundred species of plants were found, all of which are unknown in England, except garden night-shade, sow-thistle, two or three kinds of fern, and one or two sorts of grass. They found wild celery, and a kind of cresses, in great abundance, on the sea shore; and of eatable plants raised by cultivation, only coccos, yams, and sweet potatoes. There are plantations of many acres of these yams and potatoes. The inhabitants likewise cultivate the gourd; and the Chinese paper mulberry-tree is to be found, but in no abundance. There is only one shrub or tree in this country which produces fruit, and that is a kind of berry almost tasteless: but they have a plant which answers all the uses of hemp and flax. There are two kinds of this plant, the leaves of one of which are yellow, and the other a deep red, and both of them resemble the leaves of flags. Of these leaves they make lines and cordage, and much stronger than any thing of the kind in Europe. These leaves they likewise split into breadths, and tying the slips together, form their fishing-nets. Their common apparel, by a simple process, is made from the leaves, and their finer, by another preparation, is made from the fibers. This plant is found both on high and low ground, in dry mould, and in deep bogs; but as it grows largest in the latter, that seems to be its proper soil.
Our adventurers were of opinion, that no part of this country is peopled but the sea coast; so that the number of inhabitants is greatly disproportioned to the extent of country; and the settling a colony there, is recommended as an object worthy the notice of Great Britain.
The men of this country are as large as the largest Europeans. Their complexion is brown, but little more so than that of a Spaniard. They are full of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious; and are stout and well shaped. The women possess not that delicacy which distinguishes the European ladies; but their voice is singularly soft, which, as the dress of both sexes is similar, chiefly distinguishes them from the men. The men are active in a high degree; their hair is black, and their teeth are white and even. The features of both sexes are regular; they enjoy perfect health, and live to a very advanced age. They are of the gentlest dispositions, and treat each other with the utmost kindness: but they are perpetually at war, every little district being at enmity with all the rest. This is owing, most probably, to the want of food in sufficient quantities, at certain times. They have neither black cattle, sheep, hogs, nor goats; so that their chief food being fish, and that not at all times to be obtained, they are in danger of dying through hunger. They have a few, and but a very few dogs; and when no fish is to be got, they have only vegetables, such as yams and potatoes, to feed on; and if, by any accident, these fail them, their situation must be deplorable. This will account for their shocking custom of eating the bodies which are slain in battle; for he who fights through mere hunger, will not scruple to eat the adversary he has killed.
Notwithstanding this custom respecting their enemies, the circumstances and temper of these people are in favour of those who shall settle among them as a colony. They are in need of protection; and their dispositions are so sweet, that it would be an easy task to attach them by kindness. Civilization would be a blessing to people, whom nature has barely furnished with the necessaries of life.