About noon, on Thursday the 6th, they saw land again to the west, and at three o’clock they came up with it. This land seemed divided into two islands, or rather collections of islands, their extent being near nine leagues. The two largest were divided from each other by a streight of near half a mile in breadth.
Some of these islands were ten miles or more in length, but appeared like long narrow strings of land, not above a quarter of a mile broad; they seemed, however, to produce trees of different kinds, among which was the cocoa-nut tree. Several of the inhabitants came out in their canoes, and two of them appeared to have a design of coming on board; but they, with the rest, stopped at the reef. When Captain Cook had got about a league from the shore, he perceived some of the natives following in a canoe, with a sail: he did not think proper to wait for her, and though she had passed the reef, she discontinued her course. These people appeared to be about our size, and well made: their complexion was brown, and they seemed naked; they had, for the most part, two weapons in their hands; one was a thin long pole, with a kind of spear at the end; the other resembled a paddle; some of their canoes were constructed to carry not more than three men; others had on board six or seven; one hoisted a sail, which, upon the falling of a shower of rain, was taken down and converted into an awning. It could not be determined whether the signals made by the people on shore were designed to deter the Endeavour’s company from landing, or as an invitation to come on shore; these waved their hats, the others answered by shouting. The Captain did not judge it prudent or merciful to be convinced in this respect, as the island appeared of no importance, and the crew were not destitute of any thing it could produce; and as it must have proved a bloody contest on the side of the unarmed Indians. This curiosity was therefore laid aside, in expectation of soon discovering the island, where they had been directed to make their astronomical observations, the natives of which, it is reasonable to conjecture, would make no opposition to the landing of the gentlemen on board, having already experienced the danger of resistance.
Captain Cook discovered another island on the seventh, about six in the morning, which was judged to be in compass about five miles. It was very low, with a piece of water in the center, and appeared to abound in wood, and to be covered with verdure, but no inhabitants were visible. It was called BIRD ISLAND, from the number of birds that were flying about.
Saturday 8, in the afternoon, they saw land to the north, and in the evening came a-breast of it, at about five miles distance. This land seemed to be a chain of low islands, it was of an oval figure, and consisted of coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, and in the middle of it was a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, called CHAIN ISLAND. They saw smoke, which arose from different parts, by which they were convinced it was inhabited.
On Monday the 10th, after a tempestuous night, Captain Cook saw Osnaburgh Island; it is called by the natives Maite. This island is high and circular, about four miles in circumference; it is partly naked and rocky, and partly covered with trees.
The same day, upon their looking out for the island to which they were destined, they saw land a-head. The next morning it appeared very high and mountainous, and it was known to be King George the IIId’s Island, so named by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called Otaheite. The calms prevented the Endeavour from approaching it till the morning of the 12th, when a breeze springing up, before 11 several canoes were making towards the ship; only a few approached, and the people on board those that came the nearest would not come on board Captain Cook. Each canoe had in it young plantains, and branches of trees. They were brought, as Captain Cook was afterwards informed, as tokens of peace and friendship, and they were handed up the sides of the ship by the people in one of the canoes, who made signals in a very expressive manner, intimating, that they desired these emblems of pacification should be placed in a conspicuous part of the ship; and they were accordingly stuck amongst the rigging, at which they certified their approbation. Their cargoes consisting of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread fruit, apples and figs, which were very acceptable to the crew, and were then purchased.
In the evening they opened the north-west point, and saw York Island, so named by the crew of the Dolphin. They lay off and on all night, and in the morning of the 13th they entered Port Royal Harbour, in the island of Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of the shore. A great number of the natives immediately came off in their canoes, bringing with them bananas, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, apples, and some hogs, which they bartered with the snip’s crew for beads and other trinkets.
The tree that bears the bread-fruit is about the size of the horse-chesnut; its leaves are near a foot and a half long, in shape oblong, resembling, in almost every respect, those of the fig-tree; its fruit is not unlike the cantaloupe melon, either in size or shape; it is inclosed in a thin skin, and its core is as large as a person’s thumb; it is somewhat of the consistency of new bread, and as white as the blanched almon: it divides into parts, and they roast it before it is eaten; it has little or no taste. An elderly man, named _Owhaw_, who was known to Mr. Gore and others, who had visited this island with Captain Wallis, came on board, and as he was considered a useful man, the Captain endeavoured to gratify all his enquiries. Captain Cook now drew up several necessary rules for the regulation of their traffic with the inhabitants, and ordered that they should be punctually observed.
When the ship was properly secured, the Captain went on shore with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, a party under arms, and their friend the old Indian. They were received on shore by some hundreds of the natives, who were struck with such awe, that the first who approached crept almost upon his hands and knees. He also presented to them branches of trees, the usual symbol of peace. This symbol was received, on the part of the English gentlemen, with demonstrations of satisfaction and friendship; and noticing, that while each of the Indians held one of these branches in his hand, they gathered some, and followed the example of the natives.
They were conducted by the old Indian, accompanied by his countrymen, towards the place where the Dolphin had watered; here the ground being cleared, the chiefs of the natives threw down their boughs, and the Captain and his companions followed the example, after having drawn up the marines, who, marching in order, dropped their branches upon those of the Indians. When they came to the watering-place, the Indians intimated, that they had their permission to occupy that ground, but it was not suited to their purpose. In the course of this walk, and a circuit through the woods, the Indians had got rid of their timidity, and became familiarized. On the way they received beads and other small presents, at which they expressed great pleasure.
The whole circuit was near four miles, thro’ groves, consisting of trees of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. Beneath which trees were the habitations of the natives, consisting of only a roof, destitute of walls. In this peregrination the gentlemen were not a little disappointed at finding very few fowls or hogs. Captain Cook was informed by such of the party as had been here with the Dolphin, that none of the people hitherto seen were of the first rank, and they imagined the Queen’s residence was moved, no traces remaining of it. Next morning, before they left the ship, several canoes came about her, filled with people, whose dress denoted them of the superior class: two of these came on board, and each of them fixed upon a friend; one of them chose Mr. Banks, and the other Captain Cook. The ceremony consisted of taking off their cloaths in great part, and putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment was returned, by presenting them some trinkets. They then made signs for these gentlemen to go with them to the place of their abode; and the Captain being desirous of meeting with a more convenient harbour, and knowing more of the people, readily assented. Accordingly the Captain, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, with the Indians and other friends, got into two boats. About three miles distance they landed, among several hundreds of the natives, who conducted them to a large house. Upon their entrance they saw a middle aged man, named _Tootahah_, who, as soon as they were seated, ordered a cock and hen to be produced, which he presented to Mr. Banks and the Captain, as well as a piece of perfumed cloth; which compliment was returned by a present from Mr. Banks. They were then conducted with great civility to several large houses, constructed in the same manner as those already described; the ladies, so far from shunning, invited, and even pressed them to be seated. Whilst they were afterwards walking along the shore, they met, accompanied by a great number of natives, another Chief, named _Tubora Tumaida_, with whom they settled a treaty of peace, in the manner before described. Tubora Tumaida intimated, he had provisions for them if they chose to eat, and they accordingly dined heartily upon bread-fruit, plantains and fish.