The islands of Puerto Santo and Madeira were discovered on the 12th, and the next day they anchored in Fonchial road. In heaving the anchor, Mr. Weir, the Master’s mate, was carried overboard and drowned. Mr. Banks found at Madeira a tree, called by the natives _Vigniatico_, the _Laura indicus_ mentioned by Linnæus. The wood of this tree can scarce be distinguished from mahogany, which induced this gentleman to believe, that the wood called in England Madeira mahogany, was the _Laura indicus_; as no mahogany is exported from this island. The only article of trade in Madeira is wine, which is made in the following manner; the grapes are put into a square wooden vessel, the size of which is proportioned to the quantity; then the persons employed take off their cloaths, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feet press out as much of the juice as they can; in this manner the stalks are then tied together, and pressed under another square piece of wood, by a lever and a stone, to extract the remainder of the juice. A whole vintage is frequently spoiled by the bad grapes being mixed with the others, which the inhabitants obstinately refuse throwing out, as the quantity of wine is increased by them.
There are no wheel-carriages in this island; the only resemblance of them is a hollow board, that may be called a sledge, and which serves to carry their wine vessels. The soil is so rich, and there is such a variety in the climate, between the hills and plains, that there is no object of luxury which grows either in India or Europe, that might not probably be cultivated here. Walnuts, chesnuts and apples, flourish almost without culture upon the hills. The pine-apple, the mango, the guava and the banana, grow almost spontaneously in the town. The corn is large grained and fine, and it might be produced in great abundance; nevertheless, the greatest part of what is consumed is imported. The beef, mutton, and pork, are likewise remarkably good, particularly the first, which induced the Captain to take some on board. _Foncho_, which is fennel in Portuguese, gave name to the town of Fonchial, that lies in latitude 20 degrees 33 minutes north, and longitude 16 degrees 49 minutes west. It is seated at the bottom of a bay, poorly built, though extensive in proportion to the island; the streets are narrow, and very badly paved. In the churches there are great numbers of ornaments, with pictures and images of saints; the first are, for the most part, done by mere daubers, and the latter are cloathed in laced habits. A better taste prevails in some of the convents, particularly that of the Franciscans; here simplicity and neatness unite, and give us a very favourable idea of these good fathers. The infirmary is also a building that does honour to the architect, and is the most considerable edifice in the whole place. There are many very high hills; Pico Ruivo is near 5100 feet in height, perpendicularly from its base. These hills are covered round with vines to a certain height, above which there are great numbers of chesnut and pine trees, and above them various sorts of timber, so thick as to form forests. The _Mirmulano_ and _Paobranco_, which are found amongst them, are unknown in Europe. The latter is very beautiful, and would be greatly ornamental in our gardens. The inhabitants are computed to be between 70 and 80,000; and the revenue arising from the customs is supposed to amount to 20 or 30,000 pound sterling per annum. Water, wine, fruit and onions, are here in plenty; sweet-meats are also to be had without any difficulty; but permission must be obtained from the Governor for poultry and fresh meat. The Endeavour sailed from Madeira September 19. On the 22d they saw the Islands of Salvages, northward of the Canaries. The chief of these islands was about 5 leagues to the south one half west. These islands appear to lie in latitude 30 degrees 11 minutes north. On the 23d they saw the Peak of Teneriffe, bearing west by south. This mountain is near 15,400 feet high. On the 29th they saw Bona Vista, one of the Cape de Verd Islands, lying in latitude 16 degrees north, and longitude 21 degrees 48 minutes west. From Teneriffe to Bona Vista they observed flying fish in great numbers, which appeared very beautiful, their sides resembling burnished silver. Mr. Banks went out in a boat on the 7th of October, and caught what is called a Portuguese man of war, together with several marine animals of the _Molusca_ tribe. They had now variable winds, with some showers of rain; and the dampness of the air did great injury to their iron utensils. October 19th Mr. Banks shot the black-toed gull, which has not been described by Linnæus. The dung of this bird is of a lively red.
They crossed the line with the usual ceremonies on the 25th of October.
When the Endeavour was, on the 28th of October, in the latitude of Ferdinand Noronha, and in longitude 32 degrees 5 minutes west, they looked out for the island, and the shoals which, according to the charts, lie between it and the main; but neither the island or the shoals could be discovered. On the 29th, in the evening, they saw the luminous appearance of the sea, mentioned by navigators: it emitted rays of light, resembling those of lightning. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, not being inclined to adopt any of the opinions that had prevailed with regard to the causes of this luminous appearance (such as its being caused by fish darting at its prey, by the putrefaction of fish and other inhabitants of the sea, and even by electricity) threw out a casting net, when they were confirmed in their suggestion, that it was occasioned by some luminous animal. A species of the _medusa_ was caught, which resembled a metallic substance greatly heated, emitting a whitish light. Some crabs were brought up at the same time, which, though exceeding small, gave a very glittering appearance. These animals had hitherto escaped the observation of all naturalists.
Provisions beginning to fall short, it was determined to put into Rio de Janeiro. They saw the coast of Brazil on the 8th of November, and spoke with the people on board a Portuguese fishing-boat, who informed them, that the land which they saw was to the south of _Sancto Espirito_. Mr. Banks bought some fish of the people in the boat, and was much surprised to find that they refused Spanish silver, and wanted English shillings.
Their interpreters, who were a Venetian and Portuguese, informed them, that the crew of the fishing vessel declared, they had not seen a ship for eight years; this however they supposed to be a mistake, as they spoke such imperfect English, that it was almost impossible to understand them.
On the 13th, in the morning, we made sail for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace to the city, to inform the Governor, we put in there for refreshments and water, and to obtain a pilot. The pinnace returned without the Lieutenant, who was detained by the Viceroy till the Captain came on shore. When the Endeavour came to an anchor, a ten-oared boat filled with soldiers came up, and rowed round the ship, without any conversation taking place. Soon after another boat came up, with several of the Viceroy’s officers; they enquired whence the Endeavour came; what her cargo consisted of; her number of men and guns; and her destination. These and several other questions were justly answered without equivocation; when they apologized for detaining the Lieutenant, and the other steps they had taken, pleading its being customary.
Captain Cook went on shore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchase provisions, on condition of employing an inhabitant as a factor: to this the Captain objected, but in vain, as well as to the sending a soldier in the boat every time she went from the shore to the ship. Having requested, that the gentlemen on board might remain on shore whilst they sojourned, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to collect plants; these requests were peremptorily refused. Captain Cook judging the Viceroy imagined they were come to trade, the Captain endeavoured to convince him of his mistake, by acquainting him, that they were bound to the southward, to observe the transit of Venus over the sun; a very interesting object to the advancement of navigation, of which phenomenon he appeared to be totally ignorant. An officer was appointed to attend the Captain; this, which he was told was meant as a compliment, he would have declined; but the Viceroy was too polite to allow his dispensing with the honour.
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were greatly disappointed upon the Captain’s return, to find they were not permitted to reside on shore, and go up the country; and their chagrin was still farther increased, to hear they were not allowed even to leave the ship; the Viceroy having ordered, that only the Captain, and such sailors as were necessary to be upon duty, should be suffered to come on shore; probably its being reported, that these gentlemen came upon this voyage to make discoveries and observations, and possessed extraordinary abilities for such business, might occasion these rigid orders. They attempted, nevertheless, to come on shore, but were prevented by the guard-boat; though several of the crew, unknown to the centinel, stole out of the cabin window at midnight, letting themselves down by a rope into the boat, and driving away by the tide till they were out of hearing; they then rowed to some unfrequented part of the shore, where they landed, and made excursions up the country, though not so far as they could have wished. When the Captain went on shore to remonstrate with the Viceroy respecting these restrictions, the only answer that could be obtained was, that he acted in consequence of his Master’s orders. Thus situated, the Captain resolved to go no more on shore, rather than be a prisoner in his own boat, as the officer, who complimented him with his company, waited upon him both from and to the shore. It was now resolved to draw up two memorials to the Viceroy; one was written by the Captain, the other by Mr. Banks: they produced answers no way satisfactory. Captain Cook and Mr. Banks replied, and several written remonstrances and answers passed between them and the Viceroy, but to no purpose. The Captain judging it necessary, in vindication of his compliance, to urge the Viceroy to some act of force in the execution of his orders, he sent Lieutenant Hicks with a packet (on the 20th) ordering him not to allow a guard in his boat. The officer of the guard-boat finding the Lieutenant resolved to obey the Captain’s command, did not oppose him by force, but accompanying the Lieutenant on shore, went to the Viceroy, and acquainted him with what had passed, which induced his Excellency to refuse opening the packet, commanding the Lieutenant to return. He found a guard had been put on board his boat in his absence, and insisted upon the soldiers quitting it. The officer now seized the boat’s crew, and conducted them to prison, under an escorte; and the Lieutenant was sent back to the ship under a guard. When Mr. Hicks had acquainted the Captain with these transactions on shore, the latter wrote to the Viceroy, demanding his boat and men, and inclosed the memorial, which he would not receive from the hands of the Lieutenant. The bearer of this express was a petty officer, in order to avoid continuing the dispute about a guard, which a commissioned officer must have kept up. Having delivered his packet, an answer was promised.