On the 24th the Captain presented his friend, the old Indian, with cloth and other matters; and sent a variety of things to the Queen, among which were a cat with kitten, turkies, geese, hens, and various kinds of garden seeds; which compliment she returned by a present of fruit and hogs. While they remained here they sowed peas and garden seeds, and staid long enough to see them come up, and likely to thrive.
The Captain having sent a party on shore on the 25th to examine the country minutely, caused a tent to be erected to observe an eclipse of the sun, and when it was ended, he took his telescope to the Queen’s house to shew her the use of it; and her surprize is not to be expressed, on her beholding several objects which she was very familiar with, but which were too distant to be seen by the naked eye. On the conclusion of this mental feast, the Captain invited the Queen and her attendants on board the ship, judging that no insult would be offered to the party he had sent out, while the principle people were in his power. The Queen’s attendants ate heartily of an elegant dinner, and drank water only; but the Queen would neither eat nor drink. When the party returned from their excursion, the Captain gave orders for landing the Queen and her train. She made signs to be informed, if he held his resolution as to the time of his departure; and being answered in the affirmative, her tears witnessed the agitation of her mind.
The following is an account of the transactions and observations of the party which was sent out this day.--When they first landed they called on the old Indian, and taking him with them, they walked some on each side of the river about two miles, observing that the soil was blackish and rich, and that on the borders of the valley, through which the river flowed, were many houses with gardens walled in, and plenty of fruit, hogs, and fowls. They now all walked on one side, as the ground rose nearly perpendicular on the other. Channels were cut in many places, to conduct the water from the hills to the gardens and plantations, and the ground being fenced off had a pleasing effect to the eye. There was good grass, but no underwood beneath the trees: the cocoa-nut and plantain grew on level ground; while the bread-fruit and apple-trees were set in rows on the sides of the hills.
The stream now became a perfect meander, and the crags of mountains which rose on its borders hung over the heads of our travellers. After walking four miles, they sat down to breakfast under an apple-tree, when they were alarmed by the shouts of a great number of the natives. They would have had recourse to their arms, but the old Indian making signs for them to sit still, went to his countrymen, who became at once silent, and instantly retired: but they soon returned with variety of refreshments, which the old Indian divided among our travellers; and for which the Lieutenant gave the natives some buttons, and other trifles.
They then proceeded, and looked diligently for metals and ores, in every place likely to produce them; but found nothing of any consequence. The old Indian growing weary, hinted, that he should return, having first directed his countrymen to clear a passage for the travellers over a mountain. When the old man was gone, the Indians cut branches from the trees, and laid them in a ceremonious manner at the feet of the seamen: they then painted themselves red with the berries of a tree, and stained their garments yellow with the bark of another. By the assistance of the Indians, the most difficult parts of the mountain were climbed; and they again refreshed themselves on its summit, when they saw other mountains so much above them, that they seemed as in a valley.
Towards the sea the prospect was inexpressibly beautiful, the sides of the hills being covered with trees, and the vallies with grass; while the whole country was interspersed with villages. They saw but few houses on the mountains above them, but as smoke was observed in many places, it was conjectured, that the highest parts were inhabited. Many springs gushed from the sides of the mountains, all of which were covered with wood on the sides, and with fern on the summits. The soil even on the high lands was rich, and the sugar-cane grew without cultivation; as did likewise ginger and turmerick.
[Illustration: _The Queen of Otaheite taking leave of Cap^n. Wallis._]
Having a third time refreshed themselves, they descended towards the ship, occasionally deviating from the direct way, tempted, by the pleasant situation of several houses, the inhabitants of which entertained them in the most hospitable manner. They saw parrots, parroquets, green doves, and ducks. The Lieutenant planted the stones of cherries, peaches and plums, several kinds of garden-seeds, and oranges, lemons and limes. In the afternoon they rested on a delightful spot, where the inhabitants dressed them two hogs and several fowls. Here they staid till the evening, when they rewarded the diligence of their guides, and repaired to the ship.
On the 26th the Queen visited the Captain, with her usual presents; and on this day they discontinued taking in wood and water, and prepared for sailing. A greater number of Indians now came to the sea-shore than they had ever yet seen; and of these, several appeared to be persons of consequence. In the afternoon the Queen visited captain Wallis, and sollicited him to remain ten days longer; but being informed that he should certainly sail on the following day, she burst into tears. She now demanded when he would come again, and was told in 50 days. She remained on board till evening, when being informed that the boat waited for her, she wept with more violence than she had yet done. At length this affectionate creature went over the ship’s side, as did the old Indian who had been so serviceable to the crew. This man had signified, that his son should sail with the Captain; but when the time of departure came, the youth was not to be found; and it was thought, that parental affection had got the better of the old man’s promise.
Early the next morning two boats were sent to fill a few casks of water; but the officer, alarmed at finding the shore crouded with people, was about to return. This brought the Queen forward, who commanded the Indians to retire to the opposite side of the river, and then made signs for the boats to land. While the water was filling, she ordered some presents into the boat, and entreated to go once more to the ship; but the officer having it in charge not to bring off a single native, she ordered her double canoe out, and was followed by many others. When she had been on board, weeping bitterly, for an hour, advantage was taken of a breeze, and the ship got under sail. She now tenderly embraced the Captain and Officers, and left the ship; but the wind falling, the canoes all put back, and once more reached the ship, to which the Queen’s being made fast, she advanced to the bow of the canoe, and wept incessantly. The Captain presented her with several articles of use and ornament, which she received in silent sorrow. After some time a breeze springing up, the Queen and her attendants took their final leave, with many tears, which drew corresponding tears from the eyes of our countrymen.
The place where the ship had lain was called PORT ROYAL HARBOUR, and is situated in 17 degrees 30 minutes south-longitude, and 150 degrees west-latitude.
Captain Wallis now proceeds to give a more accurate account of the inhabitants of Otaheite, with their customs, manners, &c.--The men are from five feet seven to ten inches high, well proportioned, alert, and of good countenances. The women from five feet to five and a half, handsome in general, but some of them as beautiful as can be imagined. The complexion of those men who are much on the water is rather red; but the natural colour of them all is the tawny. They are remarkably distinguished from all the other natives of Asia, Africa, and America, by the colours of their hair; for that of the former is universally black, while the people of Otaheite have the various colours of black, brown, red and flaxen; most of the children having the latter: when left loose, it has a strong natural curl, but it is usually worn tied in two bunches, one on each side the head, or in a single bunch in the middle. They anoint the head with the oil of the cocoa-nut, mixed with a root of a fragrant smell.
It has been mentioned, that the ladies do not consider chastity as a virtue; but the price of their favours is always proportioned to their charms. When a man offered a girl to the caresses of a sailor, he shewed a stick of the size of the nail that was to purchase her company.
Their cloaths are formed of two pieces of cloth, not unlike coarse China paper, in one of which a hole is made for the head to pass thro’, and this hangs to the middle of the leg; the other piece is wrapped round the body, and the whole forms an elegant drapery. This cloth is composed of the inner bark of a tree. They adorn themselves with pearls, shells, feathers and flowers. They mark the hinder part of the thighs and loins of both sexes with black lines in different forms; which is done by striking the teeth of an instrument through the skin, and rubbing soot mixed with oil into the holes: some few men, who appeared to be persons of distinction, had their legs marked; but neither boys nor girls are marked till after they are twelve years old.