On Monday, June the 17th, they concluded that land was near, from the multitudes of birds which flocked about the ship; but they saw no land till the 21st, when it was discovered at eight leagues distance, having the appearance of three islands, with rocks between them. These islands abounded with inhabitants, whose dwellings lined the coast; and the beauty and fertility of the soil, seemed to excel that of any place they had seen: but the rocks and breakers with which it was surrounded, were an insuperable bar to any attempt at landing. On the night of the 21st all hands were on deck, as it rained hard, and the wind blew violently. Soon after nine o’clock the Tamar fired a gun, and the crew of the Dolphin imagined they saw breakers to leeward; but it proved to be only the undulating reflection of the setting moon on the waters.
On the 24th they discovered another island, which was named the DUKE OF YORK’S ISLAND. A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the place itself had a pleasing appearance. The boats landed with some difficulty, and brought off a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, which were a great relief to the sick. Thousands of sea-fowls were found sitting on their nests in high trees, and were so tame as to be easily knocked down, and there were great numbers of land-crabs on the ground. This island has a large lake in the midst of it, but has no inhabitants.
On the 29th they sailed northward, with a view to cross the equinoxial line, and then sail for the Ladrone Islands. On the 2d of July they discovered a low flat island, abounding with the cocoa-nut and other trees, and affording a most agreeable prospect. A great number of the natives were seen on the beach, many of whom, in above sixty canoes or proas, sailed, and formed a circle round the ships; which having surveyed for a considerable time, one of the Indians jumped out of his boat, swam to the ship, ran up its side in a moment, sat down on the deck, and began laughing most violently: he then ran about the ship, pilfering whatever he could lay hands on, which was taken from him as fast as stolen. This man having as many antic tricks as a monkey, was dressed in a jacket and trowsers, and afforded exquisite diversion. He devoured some biscuit with great eagerness, and having played the buffoon some time, made prize of his new dress, by jumping over the side of the ship, and swimming to his companions. Several others now swam to the ship, and running up the side to the gun-room ports, committed some petty theft, swimming off with their booty with surprising expedition. These Indians are of a bright copper, with regular and chearful features, and are tall and well made. Their hair, which is long and black, is either tied in three knots, or in a large bunch behind. Their ears were bored, and they certainly had worn heavy ornaments in them, as some of them were drawn down almost to their shoulders: their ornaments were shells strung together, and worn round the waist, wrist, and neck; but they were otherwise naked. One of them, who seemed to be of some rank, wore a string of human teeth round his waist. Some of them carried a long spear, the sides of which, for the length of three feet, were stuck with the teeth of the shark, which are as keen as a razor. Some cocoa-nuts being shewn them, and signs made that more were wanted, they endeavoured to steal those, instead of directing where more might be found.
The officers named this place BYRON’S ISLAND, in honour of the Commodore. It lies in 1 degree 18 minutes south latitude, and 173 degrees 46 minutes east longitude. They sailed from hence on the 3d of July, on the 21st of which month the men again grew ill of the scurvy, having eaten up all the cocoa-nuts, which are, perhaps, the best cure for this disorder in the world. Several of the people were also troubled with fluxes, owing to the extreme heat of the weather. On the 22d they sailed for the island of Tinian, being nearly in the latitude of that place; and six days afterwards they had sight of the islands Saypan, Tinian, and Aiguigan, which lie between two and three leagues from each other. At noon, on the 31st, they anchored at the south-west end of Tinian, in the situation where the Centurion had anchored with Commodore Anson. The water is so wonderfully clear at this place, that, though 144 feet deep, they could see the ground.
The Commodore went on shore, where he saw many huts, which had been left the preceding year by the Spaniards and Indians. Having chosen a spot on which to erect tents for the sick, Mr. Byron and his company, with prodigious difficulty, worked their way through the woods, in search of those elegant meadows and lawns, of which so enchanting a picture is given in Anson’s Voyage: but, to their unspeakable mortification, they found the lawns covered with reeds, in which their legs were entangled, and cut as with whipcord; and these reeds were, in some places, higher than their heads, and in none less than half that height. From head to foot they were covered with flies, which got down their throats as often as they opened their mouths. In this excursion they killed a bull, and then retiring to the tents, which had been erected in their absence, they sent a party to fetch home their prize.
The invalids having been brought on shore the preceding day, they, on the 1st of August, began clearing the well, which Mr. Byron supposes to be the same that the Centurion watered at; but he says the water was brackish, and full of worms. While they lay here the wind once drove in so violently from the west, that the ships were obliged to put to sea for a week, to avoid being dashed against the rocks. The armourer’s forge was brought on shore, to repair the iron-work of the ships; and the Commodore had a tent erected, as he was very ill of the scurvy. The crew recovered apace from the scurvy; but many of them were seized with fevers, of whom two died, being the first they had lost since they left England. The rains were violent, and almost perpetual; and the heat so intense, that the thermometer on board the ship generally stood at 86, only 9 degrees less than the heat of the blood at the human heart. Innumerable insects tormented them; and they were perpetually infested by musquitos in the night, and flies by day. The island swarms also with black ants, centipieds, and scorpions.
Parties were sent out to kill cattle, which, after being absent three days and nights, and killing a bullock, had seven or eight miles to drag it through the woods and lawns, and when it arrived, it was commonly fly-blown, and stunk intolerably: add to this, that the extreme toil of this duty brought on fevers, which confined the men to their tents. They killed poultry with ease; but the heat was so excessive, that it would turn green, and swarm with maggots, in less than an hour after it was killed. They killed wild hogs that weighed 200 pounds each, which afforded them their chief supply of fresh meat. A negro belonging to the Tamar contrived a method to ensnare these animals, so that they sent many on board alive, and were thus always certain of having fresh meat both in the ship and on shore.
A spot having been found where cattle were plentiful, a party was sent to kill them, having a tent erected for their use, and boats were sent daily to bring away what they killed: three of the crew of the Tamar were lost in this service, by the violent breaking of the sea upon the rocks. Bread was now baked every day for the use of the sick, and, upon the whole, they were well supplied with provisions.
The island of Saypan is not only larger, but pleasanter than Tinian. It is, in a great degree, covered with trees, and abounds with hogs and guanicoes. It is conjectured that the Spaniards, at stated periods, carry on a pearl-fishery at this island, as there were evident signs of people having been lately there, and large heaps of the oyster-shells were seen.
The Commodore remained at Tinian till the 30th of September, by which time the sick being tolerably well recovered, he weighed anchor, and stood to the northward. This island produces plenty of cotton and indigo, with cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, guavas, paupaus, sour oranges, and limes.
On the 18th of October several land-birds, apparently much fatigued, flew near the ship; one of which, of the size of a goose, rested on the booms: its legs and beak were black, but every other part white; and the beak was of a most monstrous length and thickness. On the 30th they saw a number of trees and bamboos floating near the vessel, which was then in 23 fathom water. On the 5th of November they came to an anchor off the Island of Timoan, on which Mr. Byron landed the day following. The inhabitants, who are Malays, no sooner saw the boat making for the shore, than many of them came to the beach, each having a dagger by his side, a spear in one hand, and a long knife in the other. The boat’s crew, however, made no hesitation to land, and bartered a few handkerchiefs for a goat, a kid, and a dozen of fowls.