On the 28th the Tamar narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces against the rocks, by the parting of the cable to her best bower-anchor. The Dolphin weighed anchor the next morning, and got under sail, which she had no sooner done, than signals of distress were made on board the Tamar, the anchor of which could not be purchased. The Dolphin, therefore, stood again into the bay, and sent her the proper assistance, after which they both anchored for the night; a night the most dreadful they had yet known. The winds were so violent as perfectly to tear up the sea, and carry it higher than the heads of the masts: a dreadful sea rolled over them, and broke against the rocks with a noise as loud as thunder. Happily, they did not part their cables, or they must have been dashed in pieces against these rocks.
On the following day (April 1st) it was almost a perfect calm; but in the evening it rained much, and the wind blew violently: they therefore remained in their station till the 4th, when the cutter, which had been sent in search of a proper anchoring-place, returned with an account, of having found such place to the west of the north-shore.
The officer who commanded the cutter had met with a party of Indians, whose canoe was of a construction not observed before, being composed of planks sewed together. These Indians had no covering but a piece of seal-skin thrown over their shoulders. Their food, which was of the most indelicate kind, was eaten raw: one of them tore a piece of stinking whale’s blubber with his teeth, and then gave it his companions, who followed his example. One of these Indians observing a sailor asleep, cut off a part of his jacket with a sharp flint.
The ships soon came to an anchor in the bay which had been discovered, proposing to take in wood and water. While they remained here, several of the natives made a fire opposite the ship; on which signals were made for them to come on board; but as they would not, the Commodore went on shore, and gave them some trifles, which pleased them highly; he likewise divided some biscuit among them, and was surprized to remark, that if a bit of it fell to the ground, not one of them would stoop to take it up without his permission: some of the sailors being at this time cutting grass for a few sheep which the Commodore had on board, the Indians instantly ran to their assistance, and tearing up the grass in large quantities, soon filled the boat. On Mr. Byron’s return, they followed in their canoe till they came near the ship, at which they gazed with the most profound astonishment. Four of them were at length prevailed on to go on board; and the Commodore, with a view to their diversion, directed one of the midshipmen to play on the violin, while some of the seamen danced; the poor Indians were extravagantly delighted; and one of them, to testify his gratitude, took his canoe, and fetching some red paint, rubbed it all over the face of the musician; nor could the Commodore, but with the utmost difficulty, escape the like compliment. When they had been diverted for some hours, it was hinted to them, that they should go on shore which they at length did, tho’ with evident reluctance.
They sailed from this bay on the 7th, and on the 8th again encountered very bad weather, as it rained and snowed, while the wind blew a hurricane. On the 9th they passed some dangerous rocks, which in Narborough’s Voyage are called the Judges, and on which the surf beats with prodigious violence. This day, contrary to expectation, a steady gale at south-west carried them at the rate of nine miles an hour, so that by eight in the evening they were 20 leagues from the coast on which they had encountered so many perils.
The Commodore recommends it to future navigators, to be at the eastern entrance of the Streight of Magellan in December; in which case he thinks even a fleet of ships might navigate it safely in about three weeks. He observes, that the facility with which wood and water are to be obtained; the vast plenty of vegetables on the coast, and the abundance of fish which may be almost every where procured, are advantages highly in favour of this passage. It is remarkable, that in seven weeks and two days, the time they were in passing it, not a single man was sick of the scurvy, or any other disorder.
On the 26th they sailed westward, bearing away for the Island of Masafuero, which they were within seven leagues of the same evening. The next day they bore away for the north of the Island, and then lay by for the boats, which had been sent to sound the eastern side, but could not land for the violence of the surf. The boats returning, brought a number of fine fish, which had been catched with the hook and line: and the officer reporting, that he had found a bank where they might anchor, and opposite to which was plenty of fresh water; they made sail for this bank, on which they anchored at 7 o’clock on Sunday morning. The boats were now sent out for wood and water, their crews having put on cork-jackets, to assist them in swimming, and prevent their being bruised against the rocks. In these seas were a great number of very large sharks, which were frequently very near the swimmers; but they providential escaped them. One of these voracious fish seized a large seal close to one of the watering-boats, and devoured it in an instant; and the Commodore saw another do the same, close to the stern of the ship. The island abounds in goats, many of which were killed and sent on board, and they were deemed equal in flavour to the finest venison. One of the goats had his right ear slit, so as to make it evident that some person had caught him, given him that mark of distinction, and let him go again. Various sorts of excellent fish were now so plenty, that they could catch sufficient to supply the whole crew two days, in a few hours, with hook and line only.
The gunner and one of the seamen, who were, with others, on shore for water, were left behind all night, being afraid to venture in the boat, as the sea ran high. The Commodore being informed of this circumstance, sent them word, that as blowing weather might be expected, the ship might be driven from her moorings in the night, in which case they would infallibly be left behind. This message being delivered, the gunner swam to the boat; but the sailor saying, he had rather die a natural death than be drowned, refused to make the attempt; and taking a melancholy farewell of his companions, resolved to abide his fate; when, just as the boat was going to put off, a midshipman took the end of a rope in his hand, and swam on shore, where he remonstrated with the poor tar on the foolish resolution he had taken, till having an opportunity of throwing the rope, in which was a running knot, round his body, he called to the boat’s crew, who instantly dragged their companion on board, but he had swallowed so much water that he appeared to be dead. They recovered him, however, by holding up his heels, and on the day following he was perfectly well.
The Commodore now made a promotion among the officers, he appointed captain Mouat, captain of the Dolphin under him, making Mr. Cumming, the first lieutenant of the Dolphin, captain of the Tamar, and advancing some other inferior officers.
They sailed on the 30th of April, steering in various directions till the 10th of May, on which, and the day following, they saw several dolphins and bonettas round the ship, and observed a few birds which had a short beak; all their bodies being white, except the back and the upper part of the wings. They saw several grampuses the next day, and more of the birds just mentioned; from whence they concluded, that they approached some land. Two remarkable birds, as large as geese, with white bodies and black legs, and which flew very high, were observed on the 16th, from whence it was conjectured, that they had passed some main-land, or islands. On the 22d they saw several tropic birds, and caught two bonettas; and on the 26th two large birds, the beak and neck of which were white, and all the rest black, flew about the ship. On the 28th two other birds, one black and white, and the other brown and white, would have settled on the yards, but were intimidated by the working of the ship. For several days after they saw great numbers of birds, and on the 7th of June they discovered land, being then in fourteen degrees five minutes south latitude, and 144 degrees 58 minutes west longitude.
The Commodore now steered for a small island, the appearance of which was pleasing beyond expression, being surrounded by a beach of fine white sand, and covered with lofty trees, which extending their shade to a considerable distance, and having no underwood, formed the most elegant groves that the imagination can paint an idea of. Several of the natives soon appeared, having long spears in their hands, who made large fires, which were answered by corresponding fires on an island to the windward. A boat was sent to look out for an anchoring-place, but none was to be found. At this time many of the best hands were confined to their hammocks with the scurvy; while those who were able to keep the deck, looked and languished for those re-invigorating delicacies which were unhappily beyond their reach. The shells of turtle were strewed along the shore, and they beheld numbers of cocoa-nuts, to the milk of which fruit the scurvy seldom fails to yield. The inhabitants of this island kept a-breast of the ship, dancing and shouting: they sometimes shook their spears, and then falling backwards, lay motionless, as if dead, which was understood to be a threat of destruction to such as should presume to land. They likewise fixed two spears in the sand, on the top of which were fastened some things which waved in the air: before these they kneeled, and appeared as if invoking the assistance of the Deity against the supposed invaders. The Commodore was tempted, from its very appearance, to sail round the island; while he was doing which, he again sent out boats to sound; on, which the natives made a most hideous out-cry; took up and balanced large stones in their hands, and pointed to their spears. The sailors, on the contrary, made every possible sign of friendship, throwing bread and other things on shore; which they would not touch, but retired to the woods, dragging their canoes after them. This being done, they ran into the water, watching as for an opportunity to drag the boat on shore. The seamen, irritated at this behaviour, would have fired on the Indians, but were restrained by command of the officer on board.